Instructor: Susan Carlson
The supply list has been provided by the instructor. If you have any questions, please contact the instructor at email@example.com
SUBJECT MATTER: Feel free to email me the photo or design you wish to use to make sure it’s will work for this fabric collage technique! I also recommend a second design as a “Plan B” fallback option. Additional designs (fish, sun/moon, sea-turtle, gecko, fish, bugs, butterflies) will be available for $3-$5 – see my website for examples. If you have any questions whatsoever, or would like to work ahead on your design, please email me. Thanks!
FABRIC in a variety of colors, prints, and sizes. Scraps that you might normally throw away, work as well as larger pieces (fat quarters and up). The more the better, fiber content may, and can, vary. SPECIAL EMPHASIS ON FABRICS WITH PRINTS OR PATTERNS IN THEM – especially “organic” shapes such as flowers, leaves, swirls, etc.. Batiks work especially well as there is usually a value range (light to dark) in addition to the overall design. Fabrics by designers such as Kaffe Fassat and Jane Sassaman are also fun to work with. Solid colored fabrics or those with gradual color gradations don’t work well in this technique.
FOUNDATION FABRIC. Muslin works well, as it is sturdy but light enough so that a photocopied pattern can be seen through it. It should be large enough to more than cover the base of your project – usually 1/2 to 1 yard.
TULLE (Bridal Illusion) in a variety of colors, especially black and a color or two to match your color scheme – size to match your project.
AILEEN’S TACKY GLUE or other water soluble, non-toxic, craft or fabric glue. I like a glue that has some body to it (it won’t seep through the fabric easily) and that dries flexible (some white glues are made to dry stiff).
FABRIC SCISSORS – different sizes or styles may be helpful. Larger for the straight cuts, smaller for detail cutting. I find those pelican-BLADED applique scissors nice for cutting around curves.
TRACING PAPER – “tracing vellum” if possible (in case you need to make or adapt your own design).
Clear TAPE (may or may not be needed).
Permanent MARKER (like a Sharpie).
OPTIONAL YET HELPFUL
NETTING – various sizes, weights, patterns and designs to play with.
My BOOK – Serendipity Quilts: Cutting Loose Fabric Collage, presents the cutting loose process (will be available in class).
A REDUCING GLASS (looks like a magnifying glass), or a PEEP-HOLE from a door (find at a hardware store), or DIGITAL CAMERA. Any of these will reduce the image you are looking at and allow you to assess how your work is progressing from a different perspective.
TWEEZERS or STILETTO (I don’t use them, but many students do and are happy they brought them).
Foam core or pinning BOARD – to work on and possibly to transport work-in-progress.
In multiple day classes there may be those who get to the quilting stage, maybe one will even get to the binding, but most will still be collaging (I’d be in that group!). So, use your best judgement on how fast you work and how easy it is to travel with your machine. If it’s not a big hassle, bring it just in case. In which case, please add:
A SEWING MACHINE that can be set up for free-motion machine quilting–including the correct presser foot (refer to owner’s manual if needed).
BACKING FABRIC – to match size.
THIN COTTON BATTING – to match size.
SAFETY PINS for basting.
A variety of THREADS for quilting. I particularly enjoy using rayon, variegated, or other specialty threads.